Lam Thuong valley to Thac Ba Lake (53km). This route leaves the hills behind to meander through open farmland before encountering some breathtaking vistas across Thac Ba Lake.
At 53m, it’s a shorter route which should leave time for exploring the Lam Thuong area in the morning. Though on my visit rain put a dampener on that idea.
Nestled in a picturesque hidden hidden valley, Xoi Farmstay proved a difficult place to leave.
With my cycling set up being such a novelty, the homestay family were of course keen to get some selfies with me and the bike, which I happily oblige.
Selfies quickly turned into real photos. And – would you believe – this photo was taken on my phone by a real life National Geographic and Discovery Channel photographer? Fair dinkum.
My new travel buddy Nitin had come out to say goodbye. Traveling in Vietnam with his friend, another photographer, they had come partly to scout out documentary locations.
Today’s route started by twisting and turning through narrow village streets full of chipped tile rooves, damp straw and scrawny chickens.
A badly flooded road looked ready to force a detour, until some young teenagers came past me and calmy rode on through. I sheepishly followed suit. It wasn’t deep at all.
Distant limestone karsts and mountain continued to dominate the landscape as the roads became larger, straighter and busier. Many of the mountain tops now looked like someone had sliced through them like a knife, and it soon became clear that the main industry around this way was the quarrying and sculpting of marble.
Blocks of marble lay in magnificent chunks by the side of the road, and even roadside signs pointing to village community halls were lovingly crafted in marble .
As the marble mountains receded so did the clouds and haze, making way for warm sunshine which had me ducking into a corner shop for icecream.
With grit grinding in my gears it was also time for my daily bike wash, and I found a “Rua Xe” sign. And as so often happens in Vietnam, the sleepy bike wash guy completely refused to take any money. He just wanted me to have a nice time in his country.
Out of this pleasant (if not remarkable) terrain a marvellous vista now appeared.
Cycling Thac Ba Lake: more touring bliss
The first watery fingers of Thac Ba lake are a sight to behold, extending seductively into some hills and was crossed by a pretty arched suspension bridge. It looks like something from a Chinese vase.
This was the first glimpse of Thac Ba Lake which was to be my delighful companion for the rest of the ride.
Deep and serene, little upsets the stillness of the lake apart from the put-putting of a few fishing boats.
This lakeside route was ideal for cycle touring . A minor, almost traffic free road winds its way along the edge of the water, occasionally weaving up into lush, rice-filled valleys or forest before coming back to the water.
The sky cleared completely and for almost the first time on this trip I was seeing this amazing landscape in bright, clear colours. It was fabulous.
At yet another delightful suspension bridge (I just love suspension bridges), a small boat passed lazily underneath as I stopped again to admire the scenery. Long bamboo poles were being pulled behind, perhaps ready to become part of some home improvement project.
There was no tourism infrastructure that I can see in this northern part of the lake though I know boat tours for private groups are launched from locations further to the southern end.
Of course, being Vietnam in the rainy season, by late afternoon darks clouds began gathering dramatically over the water.
As heavy drops fell and turned into a monsoonal downpour, I shrugged my shoulders, donned my rain jacket and resigned myself to arriving like a drowned rat.
Staying on Thac Ba Lake
Which is why it was so lovely to be greeted by the calm and gentle proprietor of the Son Huyen guesthouse and led up to a squeaky clean room with views right out onto the lake. A hot shower has never felt so good.
That night, for the price of three dollars Australian, I was treated to a feast of rice, chicken, ginger fish, vegetables and soup at a simple “rice and pho” (Quan com pho) eatery across the road. On a day of rain, sun and lake views, I happily stuffed my face.
Accomodation:
