How could you not want to go to a place called Pirate Island?
The name conjures up romantic or at least entertaining images of buried treasure and rascally, hard-living seafaring types skirting around the edge of the law.
Times move on however, and the main thing being buried right now is an electricity pipeline line to the mainland.
Read on for my guide to Hai Tac, Vietnam- otherwise known as Pirate Island.
When finished it will free residents from the vagaries of generator power. The locals are pretty excited and the signs are good for a slow, steady, healthy introduction of tourism into the economy.
Not too many foreigners get to Pirate Island, otherwise known as Hai Tac, but that is part of its appeal: the chance to see local life up close, while tourism is in its infancy.
A western travellers are starting to make it over to Pirate Island, and well they should, because it’s incredibly easy. With morning and afternoon boats every day, it is a straightforward day trip from Ha Tien, allowing you just enough time to chill on the little beach, swim in warm turquoise waters and enjoy a seafood meal.
An alternative to Phu Quoc?
In that regard, it’s an interesting alternative to Phu Quoc Island for those who are perhaps short on time or just keen to get off the beaten track. And having only re-opened to foreigners about a year ago, Pirate Island is definitely off the beaten track.
On arrival, just off the boat, I was greeted by the sight of a large boar pelting at enthusiastic speeds down the street. Yep, a boar. Running very fast indeed. At the beach I met a group of Czech backpackers and also very eccentric and rather tipsy American expat from the nearby town of Rach Gia. This fellow regaled me with stories of the pet crocodile he keeps in the back garden.
Pirate Island seems like that kind of place, where you never quite know what will happen.
Anyway, the island is around seven kilometres in circumference, so not exactly a cycling destination in itself, but one of those places where having your own transport will vastly add to your enjoyment.
Taking your own bicycle on the ferry is cheap (or even free). And being Vietnam, naturally someone will always help you with the loading and unloading.
Getting to Pirate Island by ferry from Ha Tien
Pirate Island (Hai Tac) is an easy day or overnight trip from Ha Tien, located around halfway between the Vietnamese mainland and popular Phu Quoc Island.
Geographically, Hai Tac actually refers to a whole archipelago (series) of islands. ‘Dao Hai Tac’, however is the name given to the largest island, and the destination you’ll see signs and on the side of the boats. Since foreigners aren’t allowed on the other islands, there is no danger of winding up in the wrong place.
Getting to Pirate Island/Hai Tac is actually pretty straightforward.
Ferry times
At the time of writing, ferries to Hai Tac were leaving Ha Tien three times per day, seven days a week at 8am, 8.30am and 1.45pm.
Boats leave from a berth to the left of the huge new Ha Tien ferry terminal building (Ben Tau Ha Tien). To get there you’ll need to cross the To Chau bridge and take a left hand turn (see map). Tickets are sold not from the main terminal building but from a small private ticket kiosk not far away. It’s located on the corner of Duong Tran Cong An and 30 Thang 4, opposite the Nha Nghi Trong Y (Trong Y guesthouse).
That said it’s far easier to do what the locals do and just buy your ticket on the boat. The boat will have the words ‘Hai Tac’ on the side, and if you ask around somebody will point you in the right direction.
The 8.30 service should look like this:
A one way ticket costs 50K VND and to take a bicycle on the 8.30 ferry I was asked to pay an extra 10K VND. On the way back I wasn’t charged a thing.
Ha Tien to Hai Tac: the journey
At around one hour with views back to the coast and across to nearby islands, my trip felt like it was over in no time. The small handful of passengers mostly hung out on the top deck on plastic chairs, enjoying the sight of dozens of white sea birds ducking and diving for fish in the wake of the boat. It was truly a spectacular sight, as if a bag of confetti had come to life.
Taking your bicycle on the ferry to Pirate Island
Bringing your own wheels is ideal because it is so easy to get straight off the boat and to a guesthouse or over to the beach. It is also a pleasant if short ride around the island’s perimeter road, around seven kilometres.
If you don’t have your own transport, look out (or ask) for Xe Om (motorbike taxi) drivers on the island. Minh Nga guesthouse (next to Phuong Thao) has a few rickety pushbikes for rent.
On arrival at Hai Tac it was easy enough to lift my bike up over the side and ride around the island to check out the guesthouses.
Accommodation
There are a few simple ‘Nha Tro’ (guest rooms) around the island, some in the village and a couple near the beaches. As is often the case with remote islands, you’ll pay a little more than you would normally on the mainland for an equivalent standard.
Once the island is hooked up the grid, something locals are understandably excited about, they will be able to offer a better nights’ sleep for tourists, who’ll be able to run fans overnight.
Budget homestay: Phuong Thao
This is a friendly and popular place which is about five to ten minutes’ walk from the main pier, turning left as you get off the boat. Rooms are 150,000 VND or 200K if you would like extra electricity during the day.
Be aware that this is a true homestay with BASIC facilities only. You’ll need to come equipped with your own soap, towel, toilet paper and torch for when the electricity shuts off. There’s a bucket and scoop in place of a shower, but it all does the trick.
Mid range
There is also a more comfortable mid-range option on the north-east side of the island: for 500,000 VND you can stay at the Huynh Duc ecotourism lodge, in one of five decent bungalows perched above the road.
Nicely decked out with wooden interiors, these rooms are clean and have showers, 24/7 electricity and even wifi.
Also worth a look is the Thai Minh Luan ecotourism area on the Western side. At the time of my visit, brand new rooms were being constructed there. I also heard good things from a couple of tourists who stayed at the Ngoc Nhanh.
Pirate Island beach
Apart from cruising around the island’s perimeter road – which doesn’t take long – the only real thing to do is go to the beach. This is small but lovely – two small sheltered coves of sand. If you pick a good time for weather (December is meant to be best) you’ll find calm blue waters at the perfect temperature for swimming. Given this is a local beach with a regular stream of domestic tourists, it’s no surprise to find a small amount of litter and fishing deitrus – though this is in no way overwhelming.
At the larger area of sand there is a laid back seafood restaurant and lots of hammocks: dogs and chickens amble about, scratching in the sand.
The beach is around 750 metres from Hai Tac’s main pier via the road through the centre of the island, so easily walkable.
There are a bunch of hammocks around the beach. They belong to the restaurant, but the owners don’t seem terribly fussed if you use the hammocks without buying food.
When to go
December is meant to be the absolute best time to visit the island for clear sea and cool nights. That said the weather can be good or bad at any time of the year. I went in November, which was also nice.
Avoid weekends, as Hai Tac can get busy with local tourists.
Day trip or overnight?
Because it only takes one hour to get there, it’s easy to make a day trip out of Hai Tac, heading to the beach then back home again on the afternoon ferry (2.30 and 2.45).
But why not stay overnight? In the magic hours after 3pm through to sunset there is something really special about seeing village life unfold. It’s a great experience to treat yourself to if you have the time.
There’s a very convivial atmosphere as everyone gets about their business on the single street, and you’ll get plenty of hellos from little kids and smiles from the grown ups
Watching the sun set over the fishing boats on the west side of the island is pretty magical.
Eating and drinking
Most visitors have lunch or dinner at the beach. A friendly older couple cook meals out of an unnamed shack, but it’s popular and delicious. The ordering system is casual: prawns (Tom), squid (Muc), crab (Cua) or fish (Ca) are mixed and matched with different flavouring combinations, such as garlic (toi), lemongrass and chilli (xa ot), or sweet and sour (chua ngot).
For the record, my ‘Tom xao chua ngot’ (sweet and sour prawn stir fry, 100KVND) was absolutely delicious, in fact one of the top meals of my south Vietnam trip.
Because Hai Tac is so tiny, there aren’t a huge number of options. There are two or three eateries near the main ferry terminal, including a noodle soup place that dishes out good pho and bun rieu (crab and pork soup) in the morning and at lunchtime. There’s also a coffee shop across the road.
A banh my (filled roll) stall is set up throughout most of the day, also along the strip just up from Phuong Thao.
Food options in the village
In the village, Quan An Hoai Thuong (look for a yellow sign) is about five minutes’ walk along from the Phuong Thao guesthouse and should be able to rustle you up a coffee with ice or something to eat. I’d recommend pre-arranging an evening
After dinner, do what the locals do and have a glass of Che Thai at one of the tables along the seaside. Che is a refreshing and delicious mixture of ice, coconut milk, fruits and jellies, and the stall on Pirate Island is particularly good.
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