Just south of Nha Trang, a series of scenic, empty coast roads provide an epic backdrop for cycle touring.
The landscape in this region are dominated by dramatic cliffs and boulder formations that wouldn’t look out of place in an episode of Game of Thrones. It’s much drier here, but there are beautiful forests too – Vinh Hy Bay in particular is surrounded by rolling hills and pockets of lush jungle.
My recommended south coast route starts around 70km south of Nha Trang, or 30km south of the airport at Cam Ranh. Coming from Dalat via Ban Ai, this route would be a perfect extension to a ride along QL 27.
And while you could skip these beautiful cycling roads by taking the faster and flatter Highway One, that would be a crying shame.
A great destination for the winter months
The south coast is a great option for people planning to come to Vietnam between December and February.
Past Nha Trang, Vietnam’s landmass curves back around from its easternmost point, protecting this stretch of coastline from the wetter and cooler systems that can make Northern and Central Vietnam cold, rainy and unpleasant.
(There’s always the small risk of a freak winter monsoon, weather being what it is).
Cycling the Vinh Hy Bay road
Starting from a turn off near the My Thanh bridge, a good quality road wends its way east through pretty countryside. It briefly meets the waters of Cam Ranh Bay (where there is some lovely-looking accommodation up on the cliff face at the Thanh Nhi Homestay.
A steep climb is required to cross the base of the Cam Lap peninsula before a more pleasant undulations and one final pass and glorious descent down into Vinh Hy Bay.
There are several viewpoints along the way and a small beach at Bai Kinh (30K entry) where you can swim and have lunch at a beachside restaurant. Please excuse the lack of photos as I came through this area in the rain.
While only thirty kilometres in length, this is a route to be lingered over, and I’d recommend staying the night in Vinh Hy (or another scenic spot) if you can.
Vinh Hy Bay
Tiny Vinh Hy is notable for its deep, sheltered and highly photogenic harbour, tightly enclosed within high forested hills.
The town has a scruffy kind of charm to it but is now quickly emerging destination, with new homestays and restaurants popping up. I’m hoping development will be kind.
If you’re staying the night (which I’d recommend) Vinh Hy Resort is worth checking out, with its restaurant and swimming pool on the water. The resort is very old school but the more expensive rooms are quite nice and the restaurant makes OK if variable food.
At the time of visiting (in 2018) I caught up with a bunch of quirky expats who were staying at the resort for weeks on end – taking advantage of the excellent road cycling, kitesurfing and fishing over the northern hemisphere winter. It was a fun vibe, and I’d like to go back one day.
Hiking at Vinh Hy village
One of them hooks me up with John, an expat who takes me out hiking for a two-hour in an area of jungle behind the village. (These days it may be possible to do the hike solo according to the trail marked on Google Maps, starting from this gelato shop).
John explains that this piece of forest has one of the richest biodiversity in Vietnam and that even now there are ethnic minority farmers who successfully subsist off the land.
We walk past fruit and vegetable trees integrated into the forest, visit a lookout and swim at a waterfall. It’s all very beautiful.
The road to Phan Rang Tham Cham
Only another thirty kilometres is needed to reach the provincial capital of Phan Rang Tham Cham, actually two cities in one.
Leaving Vinh Hy involves another steep hill climb, but from there it’s relatively easy gradient.
The road passes through an area dominated by grape farms, and its possible to pop in for a visit to sample fruit off the vine and the local wine.
There are wonderful views here again over the surrounding hills, quiet roads making this a cycle touring paradise.
The other attraction through this whole region are the fantastical boulder formations, and the Ninh Thuan Stone Park set up behind the My Son Buddhist temple looks like a great spot to visit.
Phan Rang Tham Cham
Phan Rang is famous for two things: its long, wide, sandy beach and a significant ancient Cham temple site with stunning views overlooking the city.
Higher-end resorts can be found along the nicer and cleaner middle section beach. Otherwise a bunch of budget mini hotels can be found at the northern end of the beach in the Ninh Chu district.
Alternatively, push on to the next scenic stretch of coastal road: the stunning Mui Dinh cape.
