This 15 kilometre loop includes a steep but worthwhile hill climb to the Nui Nai lighthouse. It’s virtually unknown, but a clear day, the views are fabulous.
I used Ha Tien as the kick-off point for my five-day cycling tour of the Mekong Delta, spending more than a week there to acclimatise, explore and get some k’s into my legs.
The surrounding countryside is virtually ideal for cycling, with flat roads wending their way through a profusion of emerald-green limestone hills on either side of a broad estuary.
It’s easy to see why there is so much folklore attached to this landscape, which has a slightly magical feel to it amidst the flat and sweeping expanse of the Mekong Delta.
The best way to survey all of this is from above, and the place to do it is at a colonial lighthouse at Nui Nai.
In this post I’ll cover the first of four 15-20km rides, all of which combine cycling with a visit to one or two local attractions.
If you’re limited for time and just want a good bike ride I’d recommend the ‘best of’ loop posted on my Ha Tien maps page.
All of these routes are fine whether you are on a bicycle, scooter or motorbike.
The Lighthouse Loop
Route info
Distance: 15 kilometres
Terrain: mostly good, smooth roads. Some unsealed sections
Need to know: You’ll need to be in reasonable shape to manage the short but steep final climb before the lighthouse. I got off and walked my bike the last few minutes.
Heading out of town
Take road 28 out of town until you get to a T junction: turning left on to Nui Den you’ll immediately see an unsealed (and unsigned) road branching out to the south west.
Take this, trying not to be alarmed when it suddenly starts to resemble a goat track.
Turn a corner and the dirt track magically transforms into a smooth concrete path that thankfully takes you most of the way up the hill. There are couple of nice views along the way, certainly enough to justify a quick rest (I mean photo) break.
Close to the top, the path once again becomes a narrow track, and there is an extremely steep section just near the end.
About Nui Nai lighthouse
While freshly painted and spick-and-span, the lighthouse dates back to 1896 when it was built under French colonial rule. It was then restored and put back into use in the year 2000.
When you arrive, one of the lighthouse keepers who will take you to the top, where you’ll be met with an impressive vista.
On my visit, this lovely fellow was more than happy to show me up for no cost at all (in fact he seemed delighted to have a visitor). He said there are no opening hours but someone is there almost all the time.
There’s a small possibility you’ll arrive at a time when no-one is around, probably because they have popped out to the local market – if so it is worth waiting ten or fifteen minutes to get access to the facility.
Riding the Ha Tien coast road
The wonderful coast views afforded by the lighthouse are a prelude to the remainder of this ride, which follows a coast-hugging road all the way back to town.
Head back down the way you came until you reach a left hand turn through a small village.
The path is unsealed and a little bumpy, but takes you through a picturesque landscape fringed with rice fields before meeting the sea.
Lined with casuarina trees, the winding Nui Den coast road is perfect for bicycle cruising or – as the locals do – just finding a nice spot to sit and gaze across the sea.
Following the peninsula for about 600 metres you’ll eventually reach a small piece of beachfront belonging to the old Mui Den Resort. At the time of writing the resort was not in operation, but this still makes a decent place to have a swim.
The water quality here and at Ha Tien’s main beach are quite variable – perfectly clean on some day and not so great on others. I’m guessing that has something to do with the currents.
On my bike trip I jumped in to the water and dried off on this pier!
What with this being an untended area, there can a bit of litter. That said, for a quick, casual dip I still preferred this quiet area the main Mui Nai beach (see note below).
Fishing village detour
Just after the point where Nui Den road regretfully curves away from the sea is a sweet little detour that for five or ten minutes will transport you into another world entirely.
Look out for these faded billboards, which mark the turnoff.
From here, a concrete path leads straight down to the sea front, where you’ll come to a sandy path – this leads through a small fishing village where bright wooden houses lend an idyllic, land-that-time-forgot feel.
First, however, you’ll be met by the subject of one of billboards: a gigantic and weirdly out of place waterslide which may or may not be abandoned.
Look out for a white sign with red and blue lettering.
Continue about 500 metres along the sandy track then loop back along the main road towards Ha Tien.
Hammock cafe time
Just before you get to town, a small and very local café offers the chance to order a coconut (dừa), lie back in one of the many hammocks and watch the fishing boats go by.
From the hammock café, route 6 (So 6) will take you all the way back to town via the waterfront.
Ha Tien beach – is it worth it?
My Saigon taxi driver – on hearing I was on my way to Ha Tien – let me know that the beach was ‘pretty ordinary’.
So while my coast road loop takes you close to Mui Nai beach, it doesn’t take you all the way. To be fair, on a nice day Mui Nai is certainly OK for a swim or lunch stop. But it’s probably safe to describe the beach as past its hey-day.
Without a doubt the nicest spot to base yourself is at the southernmost end: conveniently this is where you’ll arrive first via the coast road.
The strip of sand is narrow and quite muddy so laying out a beach towel here isn’t really an option. It is however populated with a string of restaurants, each offering beach chair rental (20K) and the use of a shower/change room.
On a weekend groups of domestic tourists come to the beach, bringing blaring pop music but also a bit of fun and liveliness – whether this is a good or bad thing is up to you.
As I mentioned earlier, the water quality can also be variable, but what was more concerning on my visit was the proximity of inexperienced jetski riders to swimmers.
There are also plenty of kayaks or canoes for rent which could be a fun alternative to swimming or sunbathing – but do look out for those jetskis.
Note as well there are two beach precincts at Mui Nai: continue north along the beach-side path and you’ll come to the second.
Read more:
Ha Tien Caves and Countryside loop
Top ten things to do in Ha Tien
Ha Tien countryside rides
Ha Tien Temple tour
