Sa Dec is famous for two things. First as the flower-growing mecca of the Mekong Delta, and secondly as the setting for a famous novel by French author Marguerite Duras.
For all its charms, it remains virtually unvisited by foreign visitors, though a number of river cruises stop off at the market. It is hugely popular with locals couples and honeymooners however, who flock to Sa Dec to take photos in the flower fields that have made the town famous.
The upshot is that there are a LOT of hotels, though not that many nice ones.
The people of Sa Dec come across as more reserved, conservative and shy, populating a place that is simply not that interested in joining the modern world.
Map
Finding the heart of Sa Dec
Most Vietnamese towns have it: a great place to sit and soak up the local atmosphere, to drink a coffee, read a book or savour a bowl of noodles. A park, corner or waterfront where people congregate and meet friends and do their morning exercises.
As far as I could tell, the centre of local life in Sa Dec is in fact the banks of the Cai Son canal. Punctuated by pretty bridges, this is where people come to stroll, socialise and enjoy their down time.
There are a few noodle stalls, a decent guesthouse and one really excellent cafe all very close, making this an ideal place to stay.
By contrast, the banks of the Mekong, a huge body of water, are virtually deserted until the evening night market sets up. That’s because the sun beats mercilessly down for most of the day, leading people to seek shade along the smaller canals.
Accomodation
I tried two budget guesthouses in Sa Dec – both great in their own ways but with a couple of drawbacks.
A new ‘Nha nghi’ (guesthouse) on Duong Tran Thi Nhuong offers very comfortable accommodation, shiny fittings, friendly staff and a well-looked after feel. Spacious larger rooms are around 350K-400K, though the smaller 250K lodgings are fine for a single.
The guesthouse (I lost my note of its name) is a little far from anything, but fine for spending the night.
In total contrast, Nha Nghi Thanh Truc is located right in the heart of Sa Dec, within walking distance of the night market, temples and a delightful
Dirt cheap, it’s also deeply old school, both in style and customer service, which can be a little on the abrasive and suspicious side. While simple, the windowed rooms are really quite comfortable, and I enjoyed the retro vibe.
Things to do in Sa Dec
If you’re not in a hurry, Sa Dec is a charming little place to spend half a day or more.
The area’s main attraction is its flower nurseries – though if you are on your own two wheels you will have probably covered these on the way into town.
Sa Dec village and memorial park
A pleasant location for a morning stroll, coffee and breakfast, there are a number of cafes in the streets bordering the park.
Hung Trung Temple
I highly recommend stepping into this temple, a hidden gem that remains one of my favourites in Vietnam. Amidst mottled yellows and blues, the circular archways add a magical touch.
Xua Cafe
Another diamond in the rough, this arty café would not be out of place in any self-respecting hipster neighbourhood. The interior and extremely pleasant courtyard doubles as a gallery for handmade wooden crafts made by local artists.
It’s a popular place to sit and chill and I wasn’t the only person there working on a laptop. It also turned out to be a popular location for local ladies wanting to dress up their social media pages – and my offer of photography services was eagerly accepted!
The House of Thuy Le
I found Marguerite Duras’ novel The Lover and found it decidedly strange – though no doubt the colonial era it represents was also a very strange time.
Whether or not you’ve read the book, a trip to the historical home is a must do in Sa Dec. Duras wrote the Lover as largely an autobiographical piece, and it remains an intriguing snapshot of the times.
Keep your expectations in check as the premises is not spectacular or large.
The guides speak English and clearly take pride in the 1890s-era building and its history. After so much time on the road I found the genteel old photos and ornate mirrors quite fascinating. You can also stay the night there – the house of Thuy Le is a functioning homestay.
The Sydney Morning Herald newspaper published an interesting article on the house and its history, which you can read here.
Main market
Vast and gloomy, Sa Dec’s riverside warehouse market is a hub for riverside commerce and gives you an insight into the transport logistics behind the barges that ply the mighty Mekong.
It’s still a typical Vietnamese fruit and vegetable market, just with everything much bigger quantities, with huge crates and baskets of fresh produce.
Of course there is plenty of action in the tangle of streets outside – I loved the colourful pants on these flower vendors.
Canal market
A more pleasant and intimate experience than Sa Dec’s enormous riverfront market, Cau Dot is a delightful to pass through. There are various fruit, vegetable and random food stalls stalls strung out along a canal, which winds its way close to the Village and Memorial Park.
Be patient when trying to make your way through this narrow and bustling strip on a bike.
Exploring by bicycle
A narrow finger of land formed a natural divide between Sa Dec’s main town centre and a broad bend of the Mekong River. If you’ve got a day to spend, it’s an interesting area to explore – criss-crossed by narrow laneways that contain a characterful by fairly poor neighbourhoods, you’ll also find a pretty but empty waterfront with elaborate landscaping obviously designed for the benefit of tourist ferries.
It’s good for cycling though, and you can cruise all the way along to the Flower and Frog Homestay, a nice spot for a meal or drink.
Waterfront and night market
Just down from the main market and around the corner from the House of Thuy Le is a broad street. There you’ll find a row of faded colonial shophouses facing onto the Mekong River.
It’s a cool place to wander: take photos of the enormous barges and marvel at the sheer scale of commerce attached to this river.
The night market starts from the early evening. The food offerings won’t knock your socks off, but there is some tasty grilled chicken to be had.
Food and snacks
I didn’t find any stand out options for eating in Sa Dec, but see my map for a few street food recommendations. I’ve marked out various places to eat in the main market and along the Cai Son canal.
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