This is the fourth day of my Mekong Delta self-guided cycling tour, and another wonderful ride.
Traversing more shady green canal paths, it also takes you across the mighty Mekong itself. Crossing this huge body of water is a pretty special experience.
This route also offers a chance to soak in Sa Dec’s famous flower nurseries. Cycling is hands down the best way to do this and means there’s no need to factor in an extra visit or a tour.
Route info
Day: four of five
Distance: 43 kilometres
Terrain: Flat, with two ferry crossings.
Highlights: Beautiful canal paths near Cao Lanh. Flowers in abundance at the nurseries approaching Sa Dec. Crossing the mighty Mekong.
Watch out for: one or two uneven sections of canal path after the Mekong Delta ferry crossing.
Map
Heading off from Gieng Island
Assuming you are staying at the Happy Homestay, start off as early as early as you can to beat the heat.
It may be very hard to tear yourself away from such a lovely place and welcoming hosts, but sometimes you gotta do what you gotta do.
Back roads through the island should take you to the ferry within about 10 minutes. The most direct way is unpaved and a little rough. It’s not too bad but probably best avoided after wet weather.
At the time of writing the ferry station location is not quite right on Google maps – refer to my marker and you should be OK.
After waiting a few minutes and handing over some small change to the ferry worker you’ll find yourself in very pleasant country surroundings.
Once again it’s striking just how different all these little communes are, despite being separated by only a bridge or a quick boat service.
Anyway, from the landing its fairly simple to follow canal roads south east to the next river crossing. There are multiple ways to
Cao Lanh and surrounds
As on Gieng Island, the community here is neat, tidy and (I assume) relatively well-off. The lush, well-kept gardens and early morning breeze make this section of the ride an absolute delight.
In fact, you can’t go wrong by varying my route – for example to seek out some shade. All the canalside paths are very pleasant. In case you are needing a coffee break, I’ve added an optional route in to a cluster of nice cafes just before the town.
Cao Lanh town is also a good option for accommodation, and you may need to stay there if the Happy Homestay is not available. However, unless you ARE staying the night, it’s probably not worth your energy to cycle into the city itself.
I went and had a look and although Cao Lanh certainly looks like a nice Vietnamese city I didn’t find any natural places to stop and wander (e.g. a piece of waterfront).
The main tourist spot is in fact the Nguyen Sinh Sac relic and burial site for the father of Ho Chi Minh. It looks well worth checking out, mainly for the peaceful grounds: sadly I didn’t spot this on the map at the time. .
Crossing the mighty Mekong
After so many cosy waterways, the sheer size and breadth of the Mekong will make you blink, or at least reach for your sunglasses.
Like all ferries so far, the boat experience is fast, straightforward and fun, with services running every ten to fifteen minutes or so.
You’ll notice a shiny new bridge crossing for this river, but (from a distance at least) it doesn’t look like something you’d want to tackle on a bike.
Life on the far bank is noticeably more modern, busy, and urban.
There’s not much alternative here but to ride a few kilometres along busy DT848, keeping well out of the way of any trucks lumbering along the highway.
First, make sure you stop for a drink at the excellent Van Du coffee, surely one of the best vantage points on the banks of the Mekong. A large breezy terrace is occupied by dozens of white tables and chairs.
I spent some time here chatting with two local charismatic doctors who were delighted to practice their English.
A long, straight canal road
From DT848 there is a long, straight concrete canal road. It’s in fairly good condition, albeit with a few bumpy spots to keep you on your toes. I’d stick with the easterly bank, which seems the most pleasant and shady.
This landscape is classic rural Delta, and you’ll notice the presence of more large brown wooden boats travelling up and down the river.
Eventually you’ll need to leave this rural paradise and join the broad tarmac of DH69. It’s a shame, but any just further south and the canal path becomes too bumpy for bicycle travel. (Trust me, I tried, and lost my water bottle in the process).
Happily this 1.7 km stretch of highway has ond advantage: it gives you a place to stop for lunch in an area where street food is hard to find.
Lunch stop
The rice eatery I’ve marked on the map is directly opposite the Linh Tu pagoda, which appears to be major visitor site for domestic tourist. (Linh Tu is enormous, and so is the road. I gave it a miss).
At any rate, the food was hearty and surprisingly good. I tucked in to a huge serving of cơm tam for only 25K, and it was one of the best I’d tasted in southern Vietnam.
Road to Sa Dec
As the route once again flows into minor canal roads, you’ll see the very first of many plant farms and nurseries.
It’s really hard to describe in words – or even in pictures – just how pretty these surroundings are.
There is something incredibly delightful about the rows upon rows of fledgling bushes and shrubs. I was utterly charmed and surprised by all of it.
There’s something very immersive about the experience that is once again made even more perfect by the sensation of cruising past on a bicycle.
Maybe since I’d expected the famous nurseries to be more scattered and more touristy, I was surprised by how much I enjoyed this part of the trip.
The locals are all smiles, but best of all dress to match the colours of their produce.
Flower farm detours
If your legs can handle a few extra ks, it’s very worthwhile to explore some of the tiny paths leading off from the main river road. (I’ve recommended a good one on my map).
Here the plants and nurseries are even more densely packed, lining the roadside like a thick green carpet. Of course the number of blooms will vary depending on the season. Certainly in December everything was lush and green.
Closer in to Sa Dec you’ll see larger fields and gardens, including some clearly geared towards domestic tourism.
Temples
Some mysterious temples are also hidden amongst the foliage on the road into Sa Dec. This hilltop shrine could only be accessed by some stone stairs – it also had great views of the area.
Colonial shop houses
Approaching the bridge into central Sa Dec you’ll see an interesting row of colonial shop houses. This is an echo to the town’s booming past, featured of course in Marguerite Duras’ novel The Lover.
Read also:
My guide to staying, eating and sightseeing in Sa Dec.
