Pu Luong homestay hopping. It’s worth lingering over the Pu Luong nature, one of the most beautiful and scenic spots in Vietnam. This short ride takes you between homestays to the village of Ban Hieu, where it is possible to base yourself for further exploration through the area.
As I found, however, this is one place to definitely avoid weekends and NEVER rely on Google navigation.
What started for me as the easiest of rides quickly turned into a nightmare as I take the wrong road to Ban Hieu village, struggling up (surely) the steepest road in Vietnam.
I’d spent the night at some rather lovely accommodation in Ban Don village, taking in the jaw-dropping surroundings. It was a fine place to spend the morning enjoying coffee, writing my diary and gazing at rice fields.
From there, the plan was to take a nice easy cycle then decide whether to stay the night or move on. Ban Hieu village, my intended location, had a waterfall and is a good base for exploring other valleys by bike.
Homestay hopping: Cycling from Ban Don to Ban Hieu village
A brand new road has been built to replace an old goat track linking Ban Don with the eastern part of the Pu Luong region, a by product of tourism I hope is making life easier for the locals too.
The new road makes a dramatic sight carving through the rice fields and is a popular location for local tourists to conduct their photo shoots. It’s easy to see why.
Plunging down a steep slope, it is a matter of doodling along through valleys and towns. Do check my map carefully though to make sure you choose the right turn-off.
Traveler’s tip: Anyone who visits Vietnam’s north should definitely consider visiting the Pu Luong region, though do try to avoid weekends, public holidays or the chilly winter period.
Accommodation prices are very high on the booking sites compared to other parts of Vietnam, so I’d recommend contacting them directly, or just showing up. Try to research when the rice fields will be green, as the scenery can be quite drab after harvest time. When I came through in early October the rice fields were already harvested in the lower areas of the Pu Luong region, including Ban Hieu and Ban Hang. Ban Don of course was lovely.
The wrong turn – navigation takes me to the WRONG Ban Hieu
While I’ve been to this village before, I figured that things must have changed, or maybe this road entered the village from a different direction. I was wrong. And what followed was the steepest bloody hill I’ve ever seen in my life.
There was no chance of riding up it so I pushed the bike, jungle sweat pouring off my arms and legs.
Finally I reached the top of the climb, at which point a funny though popped into my head. “What if this is actually the wrong way?”
Laughing that off, I continued past a few homestays and into a tiny village, perched next to the very top of a waterfall. A small dirt track was the only way forward.
“Ban Hieu??” I asked.
There’s a gaggle of ladies and their answer is blunt.
Nope. No way. This way is to difficult, I’ll have to go back around.
Worried that going down that hill could be even worse than up, I stare at them with horrified desperation.
At this moment one of the ladies offers to buy my shorts. I politely decline.
Backing away from a weird situation, I decide to give to muddy track a go. Maybe they are mistaken. Maybe it’s possible to push a bicycle along after all.
So I slosh through a river (actually I think it’s the top of a waterfall) and proceed along a muddy track. It looks pretty straightforward until the the path starts to split off on different directions.
Eventually I hit a dead end. What looked like the main section of path has just stopped dead at someone’s farm. Three cows blink at me, slowly.
Accepting the sheer futility of this exercise I make my way back to the village. The ladies are gone but a bright orange crab wanders across the path.
A steep downhill to get back on track
Now when it comes to cycling down hill, I admit to being a total wuss.
But there is no way I’m walking down this hill bearing the weight of a fully-loaded bike on my arms, so I put my big girl pants on and grip the brakes.
And, of course, before you know it I’m at the bottom and making my way to the CORRECT road leading to the other half of Ban Hieu village.
And it gave me food for though about the toughness of the life these villagers must lead, especially in the wet season, at the mercy of tiny paths that can be cut off at a moment’s notice.
Ban Hieu waterfall
At Ban Hieu I guzzle down a sugar cane juice (nature’s sports drink) to try to replace the sweat I’ve lost, and walk up along the river to see the waterfall, Ban Hieu’s main attraction. As usual I have no qualms leaving my bicycle and luggage in the care of the food stall ladies.
After strolling to the main visitor area I walk further up the river find a deserted bamboo platform jutting over the river.
The river here is a raging torrent and I sit on the floor and close my eyes. A downpour begins and I like there for a while, feeling the vibrations as the water thundered underneath.
Coming back through the main village I make the decision not to stay the night.
It’s a Saturday and already the karaoke is starting up as families flood in from Hanoi to unwind. It will be a happy vibe, but not one that’s for me right now.
The rain forecast for the next few days also means I’m keen to get a head start on the next leg of my journey.
So without further ado I hope back on the bike and head east, toward the sea.
